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Chapter 3 of 8 · Reviewed October 6, 2026

Inspecting cards

Know what you are buying before discussing a price.

Practical editorial guidance with linked sources. Examples and calculations are hypothetical; no purchase or profit is guaranteed.

In this chapter
  1. Identify the exact printing first
  2. Inspect in a consistent order
  3. What to look for under light
  4. Raw condition and numerical grades are different
  5. Treat warning signs as a reason to investigate
  6. Verify the slab and the card
  7. A 'Near Mint' card with a hidden dent
  8. Before agreeing to buy
  9. Takeaway

Identify the exact printing first

Editorial guidance: match the card name, set, collector number, language, foil treatment, and edition or promotional marking. Similar artwork does not establish the same printing or value. Read the number near the bottom and compare the full card against a reliable catalog. Note whether it is regular holo, reverse holo, non-holo, or another treatment appropriate to that set. A genuine unusual printing can look different from a familiar version; investigate the exact release before deciding it is counterfeit.

Inspect in a consistent order

Inspection map of a generic card silhouette, not a real card or a condition example. Check both sides in person when possible. A straight-on photo can hide a dent or a crease.

  1. Corners: bends, fraying, rounding
  2. Edges: whitening, chips, peeling
  3. Surface: scratches, dents, stains, pressure marks
  4. Printing: set, number, language, and expected foil

What to look for under light

Whitening appears where the colored back or border has worn away. Inspect all four corners and the full perimeter rather than judging the best-looking corner. Rotate the front and back under diffuse light to reveal surface scratches and shallow pressure dents. A crease is a fold line; a dent is an indentation that may be visible only at an angle. Check for stains, ink, residue, peeling layers, or signs of attempted repair. Record the location and extent of flaws instead of writing only 'clean'. Do not rub, bend, peel, or clean a seller's card to test it.

Raw condition and numerical grades are different

TCGplayer uses Near Mint, Lightly Played, Moderately Played, Heavily Played, and Damaged categories. Its assessment considers the type, severity, and amount of imperfections, including structural integrity. Consult the current detailed standards rather than assigning a category from one flaw. A raw Near Mint listing is not a promise of a PSA 10. PSA uses its own grading standards, including centering and other card attributes. Price the card you can inspect today; do not buy it as though a hoped-for grade were already guaranteed.

Source · Source

Treat warning signs as a reason to investigate

Pokémon Support points buyers with counterfeit concerns toward specialist review. Editorial checklist: compare text, layout, colors, cardstock appearance, and expected foil or texture with a known genuine example of that exact printing. Suspiciously low pricing or an evasive seller adds uncertainty. No single color difference, light test, or photograph proves authenticity. Never use a rip test. If you cannot resolve a concern, decline the purchase or seek an experienced independent evaluator before paying.

Source

Verify the slab and the card

Look up the certification through the grading company's official service. Compare the label description, grade, number, and available images to the item offered. Inspect the holder for damage or evidence of tampering. PSA warns that a valid certification number alone does not eliminate risk: counterfeit holders can copy real numbers. A lookup validates a record, not the physical item in your hand. For a large purchase, take extra time and consider an independent review.

Source

A 'Near Mint' card with a hidden dent

Hypothetical example

Hypothetical deal: the seller asks $80 using clean-copy sales. You spot a pressure dent on the back under angled light. Describe the location calmly and ask to reassess condition together. Find sold examples with comparable defects, then decide whether the card fits your inventory. If the seller insists on the clean-copy price, pass. A discount from $80 is useful only if the damaged copy can realistically sell above your total cost.

Before agreeing to buy

Use the same sequence even when a queue forms behind you.

Takeaway

Identification, condition, and authenticity come before price. This edition does not include defect photographs because commercial reuse rights could not be confirmed. The diagram is a viewing checklist, not visual proof of a condition grade.

Sources and review date

Reviewed October 6, 2026. Publisher guidance can change; check the linked source for its current terms.